Duane Buziak

Duane Buziak
Mortgage Maestro | NMLS #1110647 | Coast2Coast Mortgage LLC
Licensed Mortgage Broker serving Virginia, Florida, Tennessee, Georgia, and Washington, specializing in VA home loans and first-time homebuyer programs.

Suppose you owe $320,000 on a 30-year mortgage at 7.0%. Your principal and interest payment is about $2,129. Refinance to 6.0% and it drops to about $1,919, a savings of roughly $210 a month. At an assumed 2% in closing costs, that is $6,400 due at the table. Over five years you would save about $12,625 in payments, so the net gain is about $6,225, and you break even around month 31. The math works, but only if you can write that $6,400 check. These figures are illustrations, not a quote.

Duane Buziak shows Virginia homeowners, and homeowners in the other states he is licensed in, seven legitimate ways to refinance without paying at closing. None of them erases the cost. Each moves it into your rate, your loan balance, or a credit, and the right choice depends on how long you will keep the loan.

By Duane Buziak, NMLS #1110647, the Refi Guy.

On this page

1. Take a Lender Credit in Exchange for a Slightly Higher Rate

Every loan has a par rate, the rate at which it is priced with no credit and no discount points. Choose a rate above par and the lender receives more value for the loan, and it passes part of that value back to you as a lender credit. That credit is applied against closing costs. Duane Buziak shops hundreds of wholesale lenders, so the credit available at each rate can be compared across lenders instead of taken from a single rate sheet.

Here is an illustration, not a quote. On the $320,000 loan, par is 6.0% with a payment of about $1,919. A rate of 6.5%, half a point higher, might generate a credit that covers the full $6,400. The payment at 6.5% is about $2,023, which is $104 a month more than par but still about $106 a month below your current $2,129. You save immediately with nothing due at closing. The catch is that the extra $104 a month adds up to about $6,244 over five years, roughly the credit you received. If you keep the loan longer than that, par wins.

Credits usually offset only the closing costs. Prepaid interest, escrow deposits, and property tax or insurance reserves can still be due, which is why these are called no-out-of-pocket options and not free refinances.

  1. Request Loan Estimates at par and at one or two credit levels.
  2. Compare the Section A through J totals, including the lender credits line in Section J, and the monthly payment on each.
  3. Estimate how long you will keep the loan and choose the structure that wins over that period.

Common mistake: taking the largest credit without pricing the higher rate over the years you will actually hold the loan. What to measure: the monthly payment difference, total interest over your expected holding period, and cash due at closing on the Loan Estimate.

2. Roll Closing Costs Into the New Loan Balance

Start with the numbers. Your $320,000 balance plus $6,400 in financed costs becomes a $326,400 loan at the 6.0% par rate. That payment is about $1,957, only $38 a month more than the $1,919 you would pay on the $320,000 loan. It is still about $172 a month below your current payment, and you bring no cash to closing. Compared with the credit structure in Strategy 1, you keep the lower rate and pay for it with a larger balance.

The cost is the interest on the added $6,400, plus the fact that you owe more when you sell or refinance again. After five years the financed structure leaves you owing roughly $5,900 more principal than the par loan. Rolling in costs works best when you expect to keep the loan a long time, since the added payment is small and the lower rate lasts.

The constraint is equity. Suppose the home appraises at $400,000. The new LTV (loan-to-value ratio, your loan divided by the home’s value) is $326,400 divided by $400,000, or 81.6%. That is just above 80%, which can trigger mortgage insurance on a conventional loan. Program limits also cap how much you can borrow, so financing costs is not always available.

  1. Confirm the appraised value and the LTV limit for your loan type.
  2. Ask your loan officer for a financed-cost scenario at par.
  3. Compare it side by side with the credit structure.

Common mistake: rolling costs in when LTV is already near the limit, or forgetting that interest accrues on the added amount for the life of the loan. What to measure: the new LTV, the break-even month, and the portion of the payment increase caused by the financed costs.

3. Use the VA IRRRL and Its Financing Options

The IRRRL, or Interest Rate Reduction Refinance Loan, is the VA’s streamline for veterans who already have a VA-backed mortgage. It generally needs less documentation than a standard refinance, and the lender can usually pull your Certificate of Eligibility electronically with your Social Security number and date of birth. See the VA’s IRRRL page for the current rules.

Consider this illustration. A veteran has a $280,000 VA loan at 6.75%, with a payment of about $1,816. The new rate is 5.875%. The funding fee, 0.5% as of 2026 (confirm on the VA’s funding fee page), is about $1,400 and gets financed. That raises the loan to $281,400 and the payment to about $1,665, a drop of roughly $151 a month. A lender credit built into the rate covers the remaining costs, so the veteran brings nothing to closing. Fees divided by savings come to roughly nine months.

That nine-month figure matters because the VA requires fees to be recouped within a set period, 36 months as of this writing. Verify the current window on va.gov, because it is the first thing a lender checks.

  1. Pull the electronic COE.
  2. Confirm the existing loan is VA-backed and current.
  3. Compare IRRRL structures: financed fee only, financed fee plus credit, or par with cash.
  4. Check the funding fee amount and any exemption, such as for veterans receiving VA disability compensation, on va.gov.

Common mistake: assuming the IRRRL is cost-free, or ignoring whether the fees recoup inside the VA’s window. What to measure: the payment reduction, recoupment in months against the VA requirement, and the funding fee amount financed.

4. Choose an FHA Streamline Refinance and Understand the Net Tangible Benefit

Existing FHA borrowers can use the FHA Streamline, which typically skips the appraisal and heavy income documentation. The tradeoff is the net tangible benefit test. In plain terms, the refinance has to measurably help you. HUD generally looks for the combined interest rate and mortgage insurance premium (MIP) to drop by a set amount, which has been 0.5 percentage points for common fixed-rate cases. Confirm the current test and seasoning requirements, such as a minimum number of payments made and days since closing, on hud.gov.

The upfront MIP, 1.75% on most loans as of 2026, can be financed, and a lender credit can cover the remaining fees. So a streamline can be a no-out-of-pocket refinance. The payment still includes annual MIP, though, which is where many borrowers leave money on the table.

Here is an illustration. An FHA borrower owes $250,000 on a home worth $350,000, an LTV of about 71%. Annual MIP of roughly 0.5% to 0.55% costs about $105 to $115 a month. A conventional refinance at that equity would carry no ongoing MIP and no mortgage insurance at all below 80% LTV. The streamline might have the lower closing cost, but the conventional loan could win on the monthly total.

  1. Verify the existing FHA case, your payment history, and the net tangible benefit test.
  2. Get one FHA Streamline quote and one conventional quote.
  3. Compare the full monthly payment, including MIP, and the total cost over your holding period.

Common mistake: staying in FHA out of habit when your equity would qualify you for conventional financing with no ongoing MIP. What to measure: the total monthly payment including MIP, and the cost difference versus the conventional alternative.

5. Negotiate and Shop the Third-Party Fees Before You Accept Credits

Any credit or financed amount is sized to the total closing costs. Cut the total and every structure in this article gets cheaper. This is the one strategy that improves the others instead of replacing them.

Imagine two Loan Estimates for the same $320,000 loan at the same rate. Estimate A totals $6,400. Estimate B uses a different title and settlement provider and totals $5,500, because the settlement agent and title insurance fees are $900 lower. If you finance the costs, the $900 difference saves about $5 a month and $324 over five years. If you take a credit, you need less rate to fund it. Either way you keep more of the refinance’s benefit.

The Loan Estimate separates charges you cannot shop (Section B) from services you can (Section C). The CFPB explains which fees are limited against later increases in its Closing Disclosure guide. Fees for services you pick off the lender’s list generally do not get the same tolerance protection, so get written quotes and tell your loan officer which provider you chose.

  1. Open the Loan Estimate and find the shoppable-services list.
  2. Request written fee quotes from at least two providers for title and settlement.
  3. Ask your loan officer to issue a revised estimate with the provider you prefer.

Common mistake: comparing only the interest rate and overlooking differences in third-party and lender fees. Two quotes at the same rate can differ by hundreds of dollars. What to measure: the total closing costs on the Loan Estimate, and any fee changes between the Loan Estimate and the Closing Disclosure.

6. Net Closing Costs From Cash-Out Proceeds

On a cash-out refinance, you borrow more than you owe, and the closing costs come out of the extra. Nothing is paid at the table, and what is left is yours.

Illustration: you owe $240,000 at 7.0%, with a payment of about $1,597. Credit cards carry $60,000 with minimum payments around $1,500 a month. You refinance into a $306,000 loan at an assumed 6.25%. Costs of about $6,100 (2%) come off the top, the old mortgage is paid, and roughly $59,900 goes to the cards. The new payment is about $1,884. Before, you paid roughly $3,097 a month across the mortgage and the cards. After, you pay about $1,884, a difference of about $1,200 a month. You have also moved unsecured debt onto your home, so a missed payment now puts the house at risk.

Your ceiling depends on the loan type. A conventional cash-out refinance is capped at 90% LTV, and a VA cash-out refinance can go to 100% LTV. If you only need a small amount, compare a HELOC, which can leave your low first-mortgage rate untouched. In this example the current rate is high, which is why a cash-out refinance works.

  1. Confirm the maximum LTV for your loan type and your appraised value.
  2. List the debts to be paid directly at closing.
  3. Run a HELOC comparison if the cash need is modest.

Common mistake: borrowing more than needed because the costs are netted from proceeds, which adds long-term interest. What to measure: net proceeds after costs, total monthly obligations before and after, and total interest compared with the alternative.

7. Time the Refinance So a No-Out-of-Pocket Structure Still Passes the Break-Even Test

Break-even is the month when your cumulative savings equal what the refinance cost. On the opening example, $6,400 divided by $210 a month is about 30.5 months. Stay longer than that with a cash-paid par loan and you are ahead.

Each no-out-of-pocket structure changes the result. With the credit, the cost is the $104 a month premium from Strategy 1, and par does not overtake it until about month 62. With costs financed, you save $172 a month from day one, and paying cash would not beat that structure until about month 167. At year five, ignoring balance differences, cumulative payment savings are about $6,225 for par after costs, $6,381 for the credit, and $10,322 for financed costs. The financed loan carries roughly $5,900 more principal and the credit loan roughly $1,700 more, so the gap narrows. Your holding period decides which wins.

  1. Estimate how long you will realistically stay in the home or keep the loan.
  2. Run each structure through a break-even calculation with LoanOptimizer, Duane Buziak’s mortgage optimization tool.
  3. Start with a soft-pull pre-qualification so your credit is not touched while you compare.
  4. Check the weekly average on the Freddie Mac Primary Mortgage Market Survey to see where the market sits relative to your quote.

Common mistake: refinancing repeatedly and resetting the term each time without recalculating break-even. Restarting a 30-year clock after five years adds interest even when the payment falls. Consider a shorter term or extra principal payments. What to measure: the break-even month, the years you expect to keep the loan, and cumulative savings at year five.

The Seven Structures Compared on One Loan

The figures below use the $320,000 illustration, with par at 6.0% and costs at an assumed 2%. They are not quotes.

StructureWhere the cost goesCash due at closingIllustrative payment effectSuits you when
1. Lender creditHigher rate (6.5% vs 6.0% par)Little or none beyond prepaidsAbout $2,023 vs $1,919 at parYou may move or refinance within about 5 years
2. Rolled-in costsLarger balance ($326,400)None for costsAbout $1,957, or $38 more than parYou have equity and will keep the loan long term
3. VA IRRRLFinanced funding fee plus creditLittle or noneExample: $1,816 down to about $1,665You hold an existing VA loan
4. FHA StreamlineFinanced upfront MIP plus creditLittle or noneDepends on the rate and MIP dropYou hold an FHA loan with limited equity
5. Fee shoppingSmaller total to fundLower in any structure$900 lower costs saves about $5 a month if financedYou are comparing offers on any loan type
6. Cash-out nettingDeducted from proceedsNoneExample: $306,000 loan, about $1,884You need cash or debt payoff and have the equity
7. Break-even testA test, not a structureNot applicablePar breaks even near month 31You need to choose between structures

For the Virginia data point, the baseline conforming loan limit for a one-unit home is $832,750 for 2026, and Northern Virginia localities in the Washington, DC area carry higher limits up to $1,249,125. Check your county on the FHFA conforming loan limit page before assuming your loan fits.

Refinance With No Closing Costs Options: Your Questions Answered

Can you really refinance with no closing costs?

You can refinance with nothing due at closing, but the costs still exist. They are paid through a higher rate, a larger loan balance, or cash-out proceeds. Prepaid interest and escrow deposits may still be due.

Is a no closing cost refinance the same as a free refinance?

No. It is a pricing trade-off. You skip the upfront payment and pay for it over time, so the right question is whether the structure still saves you money over the years you keep the loan.

What is a lender credit and how does it work?

A lender credit is money the lender applies toward your closing costs in exchange for a rate above par. It appears on your Loan Estimate and lowers the cash you need at closing.

Should I roll closing costs into the loan or take a higher rate?

It depends on your equity and your holding period. Rolling costs in keeps the lower rate but raises the balance. A higher rate keeps the balance flat but costs more each month. Compare both on Loan Estimates and run the break-even.

Does the VA IRRRL have closing costs?

Yes, though many can be financed or covered by a credit. The funding fee was 0.5% as of 2026, and the VA requires fees to be recouped within a set period. Verify current terms on va.gov.

Does an FHA Streamline require an appraisal?

Typically not. It does require a net tangible benefit, current payments, and meeting seasoning requirements. Confirm the current rules on hud.gov.

How long do I need to stay in the home for a no-closing-cost refinance to make sense?

Use the break-even month. On the illustration, a cash-paid par loan breaks even around month 31. A credit or financed structure starts saving sooner, but costs more the longer you keep the loan.

Can I do a cash-out refinance with no out-of-pocket costs?

Yes. Costs are subtracted from your proceeds. Conventional cash-out is capped at 90% LTV and VA cash-out can reach 100% LTV.

Does checking my options affect my credit score?

A soft-pull pre-qualification with Duane Buziak does not affect your credit. A hard pull happens later, when you choose to move forward with an application.

Is Duane Buziak a mortgage broker or a mortgage lender?

Both. Duane Buziak is a mortgage broker who shops hundreds of wholesale lenders to find the fit for your loan, and he can also fund loans through in-house and correspondent capability when that serves the borrower.

Where to Start: Break-Even First, Then Pick the Structure

Start with Strategy 7. Estimate how long you will keep the loan and find your break-even month, because every other choice depends on it. Then choose between Strategy 1 and Strategy 2: a lender credit tends to suit a shorter holding period, and rolled-in costs suit a long one, provided your LTV has room. If you hold a VA or FHA loan, price the IRRRL or the FHA Streamline first, since both are built for low-cash closings. Shop the third-party fees no matter which path you take.

Ready to discover how much you could save with Virginia’s top-ranked mortgage expert? Call (804) 212-8663 now for your free soft-pull rate analysis, no credit impact, no obligation, and find out if refinancing can lower your monthly payments or unlock your home’s equity. Duane Buziak, NMLS #1110647, will run the break-even math with you.

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